Black Lives Matter, the movement of our time
Given the current climate we are in, our regular weekly article will be put on hold. In its place we believe it’s important for us to share with you how you can make a real contribution towards ending systemic racism and a discussion of the relevance of this movement to Australian Retail.
Today Zimmermann has been named by @DietPrada as having racist brand imagery and staff policies. Read the full post here including comments from previous employees. This is unfortunately a reflection on not just this one brand, but the whole industry. The brand said in a statement:
“We acknowledge that we must confront instances of unacceptable behaviour in our company and any business practices that contribute to the broader problem of systemic racism in society.
“As a brand and as a company, we condemn racism of all kinds and we need to consistently demonstrate this in our actions. We have listened to the feedback from people both inside and outside the business and are determined to be part of meaningful and positive change in the global fashion industry.”
Another much loved brand, Reformation, has also had its inherent racism exposed by @DietPrada, and their response has been interesting, but it will be the change and action they take that will show their real commitment to the cause.
I’ve spoken to a communications and marketing specialist in the Australian fashion industry. She has first-hand experience in dealing with Australian brands such as Zimmermann, and says
“this isn’t just limited to Zimmermann. For years, many big brands have touted themselves as ‘iconic Australian fashion’ but season after season they feature one Anglo model after another.”
It seems that as individuals we may all be along a different point in our “woke-ness”. I hope that by now, we all can understand the need for diversity and the harm in hero-ing “thin”, and “white” as the only ideals of beauty and aspiration. However, as our expert explains this is not only the work of the fashion industry or marketing teams to undertake:
“Diversity is not just an Australian fashion industry issue. I think we could similarly look at many of our creative industries and retailers and see that the sectors are performing poorly in this area. It is also not just a marketing issue. Marketers manage the most visible aspect of diversity to the public, however if it’s not addressed in a company’s culture, from the top down, it’s all for nought.”
As uncomfortable as it is we all need to look at our brands and businesses in this light, and ask some tough questions of ourselves. Are we truly reflective of our customer base, or are we upholding our own biased ideals of beauty and aspiration? How can we start to shift this within our businesses and the community at large? As our expert says:
“The biggest positive change for diversity in the Australian fashion industry has been Instagram. Prior to social media there was a definite attitude of a look that sells products or covers of magazines. The advent of Instagram influencing sales saw a huge shift in who the decision makers were. Suddenly we saw a bigger, more accurate representation of women of different ethnicities, shapes and sizes holding the reins of power. However, anyone with sense of the marketing funnel would know that staff and culture are intrinsic to making a sale. If we feel included by your Instagram and then excluded when shopping in store, how’s that going to look for your ROI?”
So, now that Instagram has made inclusivity in campaigns a thing, how can you translate this to your business – both internally, through your HR policies and company culture and externally, through your brands messaging, imagery and partnerships?
“Zimmermann are smart operators and I have no doubt their experienced team would be working hard today to improve attitudes to diversity across every touchpoint of the organisation. All Australian retailers should be looking at their organisation and saying how can we do better, and who do we need to listen too? We won’t see accurate change if it’s just white executives making BIPOC policy.”
It feels as though most businesses really do wish to support the cause but are at a loss as to how to do this effectively and without making the wrong move. We are by no means experts on this matter, but feel it’s important for us to share what we can to help.
Here is a list of things you can do both as an individual and as a brand.
1. LEARN
Stop, and listen – we’re so often quick to make judgements and disagree with new ideas that may oppose our own or even question our sense of identity and achievement. This is not a time to win arguments. It’s a time to learn. So, seek out information, question yourself and your ideals, and really listen to the people affected. A good place to start is last nights Q+A episode (link further below), it was raw and emotional, but a great eye opener to the daily racism apparent today in our society.
Have a conversation – ask your team, your family and friends what the BLM movement means to them. Ask how you can do better as an organisation and listen to the answer. It’s not about you, it’s about our society, so make a positive contribution however you can.
Google it – it’s important you don’t place the burden of teaching you how to help on people of colour, it’s not their responsibility to educate their oppressors. It’s our responsibility to enlighten ourselves and start to make amends. Some terms for you to look up and learn more about:
Systemic racism
Performative allyship
White privilege
Uluru statement from the heart
Racial Economic Inequality
Black Lives Matter Reading List
BIPOC
2. CONTRIBUTE
This needs to go further than a social media post. As an organisation decide how best you can contribute be it through time – supporting the protests, internal initiatives to make real change to your organisational structure or brand aesthetic and monetary contribution to a relevant organisation or charity.
Use your platform – if your brand has a Facebook profile, you can utilise this platform to share the donate button on your BLM posts. You’ll be able to promote any of the indigenous rights charities that have ACNC status and the organisation receives 100% of the donation within 90 days. It’s as simple as clicking on the three dots when you’re doing a post, clicking add donate button and searching for the charity by name. Unfortunately we don’t have the donate button available on Instagram in Australia yet.
Support local indigenous businesses and designers – be deliberate in seeking out indigenous partners so that you can contribute to their presence and prosperity.
Pay the rent – Recognise that the land we conduct our businesses on belongs to the first nations people. Then make a contribution to them in recognition of this. Pay The Rent is an organisation that has been set up in Victoria to facilitate this for you. Or you can donate to many other organisations and charities to begin to make actual impact in the story for our indigenous and POC communities. Here are some lists for you to start with: Welcome to Country, NME, TheLatch, Marie Claire
Question your brand identity and aesthetic – in particular how diverse is your image? Does it honestly reflect your customer? Many brands in particular in the fashion and beauty space have been brought to light over this in the past weeks. But this shouldn’t be limited to those categories, there is a place for all brands to reflect on and improve in this space.
Be inclusive, ensure your brand imagery truly reflects your customer base and question your ideals of aspiration. Ensure that the process is inclusive, ask your team or your customers for their experience of your brand, and listen to their suggestions. We are a nation built on immigration, all of us or our recent ancestors except for the first nation’s people immigrated here, so reflect on that and make a change.
Be the change you wish to see – lead by example, show your team your humanity and listen to theirs. Be open to criticism and learning, and do your best to make a change both personally and organisationally.
3. CONSUME
Read – there are endless contributions to this space seek them out and read them, some of the things we have read include:
Rom Watangu (The Law of The Land) – The Monthly
Australia’s Hypocrisy – The Conversation
Reni Edo-Lodge, Why I’m No Longer Talking to White people about race.
A good article on the US beauty industry’s response
Watch – so many brilliant films and documentary’s in this space for you, and as above last night’s Q+A episode was emotional and raw and a great place to watch and start listening.
The 13th (Netflix);
Rabbit Proof Fence (Stan);
Q+A Hard Truths (ABC)
Follow – @commongroundaustralia; @ausindigenousfashion; @blakbusiness; @blackrainbowaus; @seedmob; @justicefortanyaday; @healingourway; @ulurustatement; @blackfulla_bookclub; @heart2heart_journey; @tiddas4tiddas
Support Retail – Earth Blended (www.earthblended.com); Leah Brideson (www.leahbridesonarts.com.au); Jarin (www.jarinstreet.com.au ); Anindilyakwa Arts (www.anindilyakwaarts.com.au ); Walk About Clothing (www.walkaboutclothing.net.au ); Indii Swimwear (www.indiiswimwear.com); Lianda Swim (www.liandraswim.com ); Jackets with a Voice www.ginnysgirlgang.com; Gilawarra Arts (www.gillawarraarts.com); Gammin Threads (www.gamminthreads.com ); Clothing the Gap www.clothingthegap.com.au; Magabala Books (www.magabala.com ); Keeaira Press (www.kpress.com.au ); Garuwa Clothing
Listen – stream and listen to indigenous music find what you like and show your support (here’s one list to get you started) and here’s a list of indigenous podcasts, and Tiddas 4 Tiddas (Podcast)
Please remember, this is just one resource for you to use, there’s a wealth of knowledge out there so seek it out. And do your bit to educate yourself and those around you on the Black Lives Mater movement and the many issues it ties into in our daily lives, workplaces and organisations.